Mashed potatoes: This holiday staple may have roots in 17th century English cooking (2024)

Melissa Lee|Tri-County Independent

As families get ready to set their holiday tables, one of the quintessential side dishesis mashed potatoes. A perfect complement to any main course, the creamy indulgence of a good mashed potato is the equivalent of a warm hug.

Regardless of how you celebrate, comfort food is a necessity.Everybody needs some extra comfort this year, and what better way to do it than by making some yourself?

Tasty tubers

Potatoes weren’t always considered to be delicious. In the 1700s, this vegetable was considered only fit for livestock.

They also were thought to be a cause of leprosy, which led them to be banned in France from 1748 to1772. Herbalists of the time believed that the look of produce was a clue to what they could cure or cause. The potato resembled the hands of a leper, which caused the rumor to begin. This is, of course, false.

Botanists of the time also found the tuber to be in the nightshade family, which gave them a more nefarious reputation.

While potatoes are perhaps most readily associated with Ireland, they are not native to the Emerald Isle.

The tasty tubers were cultivated and consumed first in Peru and Bolivia. They tasted bitter and were, in fact, slightly poisonous.

Interestingly, relatives of llamas found a way to eat them without becoming poisoned. They would lick clay before taking a bite, as the poison would stick to the clay and not make them sick.

The popularity of the potato actually began in prison, with scientist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier. He was captured while serving in the French Army in 1760s, and ended up spending years in a Prussian jail.

He was able to survive by consuming potatoes, and upon his release, even wrote an award-winning essay exalting the tuber.

Parmentier embarked on a publicity tour that included a banquet that featured potatoes for the birthday of King Louis XVI.

To further convince the public, he began growing potatoes in fields guarded by soldiers. Locals became curious as to what was growing, and would wait and watch, trying to learn what the valuable crop must be.

When the potatoes were ready for harvest, the guards were removed and the public ran into the fields and stole the ripe produce.

How to prepare

Potatoes are delicious in a variety of preparations, from French fries andbaked potatoes towhat we’ll focuson, mashed potatoes.

Parmentier is responsible for coming up with a variety of preparations, and some food historians credit him with inventing the mashed potato during one of his potato preparation publicity stunts in 1771.

Others point to the English, who mashed potatoes and served them with pan drippings in the 1600s.

One of the earliest recipes for this holiday staple is found in "The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy'' (c.1747) penned by Hannah Glasse.

Her 384-page cookbook was a bestseller for an entire century after its publication, and had 40 editions. Some of those Glasse was involved in, while many were done without her knowledge or consent.

This text was very popular in the original 13 American Colonies, and was a major influence on holiday meals. Founding Fathers Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson and George Washington all owned a copy.

My mashed potato recipe uses baking potatoes, milk, butter, cream cheese, salt and pepper.

The secret to these is to mash the potatoes by hand until all the large chunks are gone, and finish by whipping them with a hand or stand mixer.

Basic mashed potatoes

  • 5 poundspotatoes (I like russets)
  • 4 to 6 T. unsalted butter
  • ½ -cupwhole milk (or half and half if you want them even richer)
  • A couple ounces of cream cheese
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Peel and cut the potatoes into chunks that are all a similar size. Cover them with cold water and some salt.

Boil for around 10 minutes – they’re done when a fork or knife doesn’t meet resistance when it’s inserted. Drain thoroughly. If I think there’s still some water left, I put the pan back on the burner to evaporate it out.

Mash your potatoes until they are your desired consistency – I like mine whipped.

You will want your milk, cream cheese and butter at room temperature for this step.

Slowly add in the butter, cream cheese and milk, beating with a mixer to combine. When half is added, give them a taste and decide what it needs more of. Mix until just combined, add salt and pepper to taste. Chives and garlic are also delicious additions.

Mashed potatoes: This holiday staple may have roots in 17th century English cooking (2024)
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